 There's nothing new about fritto misto – you know, those irresistible and devilishly moreish, battered lite-bites that invariably disappear off the plate with indecent haste.
The term “fritto misto” translates roughly as “deep-fried, mixed collation” and is essentially a traditional style of Italian cooking that has evolved, over the years, in tandem with changing global tastes (and appetites!).
The modern spin, however, on this enduringly popular culinary concept that involves tasty morsels fried in a light, crisp batter, bears little or no resemblance to the original Italian fritto misto recipes. Today's offerings tend to be lighter, crispier and use a much wider range of fresh ingredients, combining flavours and textures that appeal to modern tastes. Typically prepared in the light and delicate Tuscan style of cooking, and made from fresh ingredients that change regularly according to the seasons, modern mistos are made with the health-conscious in mind.
Most London Italian restaurants tend to offer their own version of fritto misto, with combinations of lightly battered, seasonal delicacies that in most cases can be truly inspirational. A combo, for instance, of lightly battered courgette flowers, slithers of aubergine, anchovies and a few borage or sage leaves for good measure, is guaranteed to tickle the taste buds, and have you chomping for more!
But, let's get back to Italy - home of the fritto misto. The original dish was a rather humble affair; little more than a mish-mash of mixed fried fish, vegetables or assorted chunks of meats. The traditional Italian fritto misto is seafood-based, with fish and molluscs of all description. An interesting variation on this seafood fritto misto is the fritto di paranza , consisting of small whole fish (including head and tail), fried in a light batter and served with lemon wedges.
Beyond the sophisticated Tuscan hillsides, on the other side of the Apennines , in the Le Manche region, we come across an altogether more substantial style of traditional fritto misto. A million miles away, at least in foodie terms, from those little nibbly things that we Brits linger over, in the name of appetisers, here we come face to face with fritto mistos that will please the hugest of appetites. Forget the notion of delicate sophistication. This is more than a meal; it is heavy stodgy and certainly not designed for those of a more delicate constitution. A typical Le Manche fritto misto alla marchigiana might consist of several lamb chops, pieces of veal, sweetbreads, large, juicy stuffed olives and … wait for it …a topping of deep fried custard chunks ( cremini )! Apparently, this meat/custard combo, to this day, is a local favourite in the area around Ascoli Piceno in Le Manche. And, according to Dr Alan Evans, an authority on La Cucina Picena, the food of that region, this particular fritto misto recipe dates back to Italian renaissance cookery.
Of course, you're unlikely to come across the gargantuan Le Manche style fritto misto with cremini, in your typical Italian restaurant in London , today, or anywhere else, for that matter. You may, however, if you're lucky, come across a somewhat less challenging version called fritto misto alla Piemontese , a combination of various meats, maybe a little offal, a preponderance of fresh vegetables, even fruit and a little semolina.
Other fritto misto recipes that you are more likely to encounter include:
Fritto misto di mare : a delicate mix of seafood fried in a light, crispy batter.
Polpette per Cuscussù : fried meatballs stuffed with vegetables and served with couscous.
Fritto misto alla Bolognese : mixed fried foods with a Bolognese sauce
Olive all'Ascolana : olives, stuffed with various meats and cheeses and fried.
Buono appetito!
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