 Anyone who has whiled away the hours in a traditional taverna, off the beaten track in Greece, will take no persuasion.
Greek hospitality, simple, freshly cooked food, served with pride, the local wine being topped up religiously, a genuine welcome – these are the norm, in the land of the Gods, rather than the exception. No need here for crash management, catering courses for waiting staff, or hospitality trade tips for taverna owners on how to woo customers. The Greeks know instinctively how to please; and they have done so since the beginnings of civilisation.
Inevitably, however, mass tourism has spawned in its wake examples of so-called Greek fodder that give the genuine stuff a rotten reputation. And, that’s a great shame because, over the ages, authentic Greek cuisine has remained largely unscathed by the worst of modern day culinary influences. In fact, some of the enduringly popular Greek dishes bear a remarkable resemblance to the delicacies described, way back, in Homer’s Iliad. Somehow, the Greeks have managed to retain a comfortable relationship with the produce of their land and, to this day, they know how to serve it up, a treat.
Perhaps the exaltations of the well-known Greek chef and author, T. Tolis, who wrote that “since prehistoric times, the sun-blessed Greek land generously offered its fortunate inhabitants an exceptionally good quality of produce, so that they could develop the nutritional need of the human body into a sensitive science and art” are somewhat excessive. But, he does have a point. Greek cooks, around the world, have truly mastered the art of using fresh local produce to best advantage; they also know a thing or two about pleasing the punters.
Nevertheless, for those amongst who reside in cooler climes and who hanker after the real Greek experience, the burning question remains: “Can London’s Greek restaurants recapture the atmosphere and subtle flavours and aromas of the genuine article?”. Given the vagaries of the British weather and the pace of city living, which is less than conducive to leisurely dining, Greek-style, the answer surprisingly is probably “yes”. Well, at least, a number of the city’s Greek eateries have come pretty close to it, with cooking and ambience to please even the most critical of Graecophiles. Throw in a bit of Greek music and dancing and Stavros is your uncle; you’re transported back to Greece, ouzo or retsina in hand, sitting at a rickety table, under a trellis of vines, and all is well with the world!
O.K, so what’s cooking in Greek kitchens, nearer home? What are the most popular items on restaurant menus? One of the joys of going Greek is that it’s easy to mix and match dishes, with no clear demarcation between courses. Here are a few tasters to whet the appetite:
Typical Greek dishes:
Dolmades (stuffed vine leaves)
Tzatzki (cucumber, yoghurt and garlic dip)
Tiropittakia (feta cheese filo parcels)
Saganaki (fried cheese, typically made from Halloumi cheese)
Kolokythokeftedes (courgettes fried in a light crisp batter)
Mydia me tomata kai skordo (mussels in tomato and garlic sauce)
Kalamarakia tiganita (fried squid)
Gardoumba (parcels of lamb’s liver and kidney wrapped in intestines)
Traditional Greek salad (typically tomatoes, cucumber, onions, olives, feta cheese)
Aubergine and feta salad (tomatoes, onions, parsley, feta, olives, lemon juice)
Potato salad (served on a bed of lettuce and topped with herbs)
Psarosoupa avgolemono (fish soup with egg and lemon)
Soupa fasolia (bean soup)
Soupa fakes (lentil soup)
Tahinosoupa (ground sesame soup)
Omeletta me kremidia kai piperies (omelette with onions and peppers)
Avga me melitzanes (fried eggs with aubergines)
Avga me spanaki (baked eggs with spinach)
Rizi me thalassina (seafood with rice)
Stuffed tomatoes/peppers (filled with rice, currants and pine nuts)
Sfougato (minced beef with courgettes)
Moussaka (traditionally made with minced lamb)
Keftedes (meat balls with tomato sauce and basil)
Baked stuffed aubergines (minced beef, tomatoes, onions, garlic, cheese topping)
Macaroni and octopus (served with a tomato and onion sauce)
Green beans (cooked in an onion garlic and tomato sauce)
Patates yiahni (potatoes cooked with onions, peppers and garlic)
Spinach and cheese pie (made with feta cheese)
Grilled sardines (with olive oil and oregano)
Baked shrimps (with feta cheese)
Stuffed squid (with rice, onions, tomatoes, peppers)
Roast chicken (with rice stuffing, green olives and lemon sauce)
Rabbit (baked with lemons, garlic, olive oil and oregano)
Lamb (baked in yoghurt and garlic)
Baklava (layers of filo pastry with a filling of honey, nuts and spices)
Honey fritters.
Greek wine?
Forget the myth that all retsina and the bulk of Greek quaffing wines are undrinkable. Wine production, throughout the regions of Greece, has undergone a veritable transformation, in recent years. The upshot is that some very fine wines are now being made from both indigenous, as well international grape varieties. The chances are you’ll be pleasantly surprised!
Finally, if you’re looking for a Greek restaurant, in London, you’ll be spoilt for choice; here are a few suggestions to get you going:
Apollonia, 17a Percy Street, Fitzrovia, London W1P 9FE
Jimmy’s, 23 Frith Street, London, W1D 4RR
Kalamaras Greek Taverna, 66 Inverness Mews, London, W2 3JQ
Niki Taverna, 16 London Street, Paddington, London, W2 1HL
Salamis Taverna, 86 Hill Rise, Richmond, Surrey, TW10 6UB
Vasis, 56 Maple Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 6HW.
Yamas!
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