 With so many quality sparkling white (and even red) wines competing for our discerning palates, the time is ripe to review the question “What’s so special about genuine champagne?”
Exclusivity, it would appear, is champagne’s trump card; it also has pedigree. And, if you can afford it, what could be more pleasurable than ordering a bottle of finest brand name, without batting an eyelid?
If you pop on down to the Vive La France French lifestyle exhibition, at the Olympia Exhibition Centre, Hammersmith Rd, London W14 8UX, between 16th and 18th January 2004, no doubt the exhibitors will be more than happy to expound upon the superiority of champagne over other more than adequate bubblies.
By its very definition, this fine bubbly must come from the Champagne region of northeast France. In addition, it is a basic requirement of French wine law that Champagne is produced (or more appropriately “nurtured”!), according to the Méthode Champenoise, the strict rules governing the method used to produce this benchmark bubbly. The method, by which champagne is given its superior sparkling quality was developed in the late 17th - early 18th century by the Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon. And, little has changed since, which says a lot for this winning formula!
Of course, it would be vinous suicide to claim that all champagne is better than other sparkling wines, as clearly not all champagne measures up to the competition. Champagne comes in three tiers of quality (non-vintage, vintage and de luxe cuvées), and some of the poorest examples can be exceedingly disappointing. Fortunately, variable quality is a rare occurrence, nowadays, and most of the big brand names are reliably good and exhibit that je ne sais quoi associated with classic champagne.
So, what are the distinguishing characteristics of quality champagne and how can you spot the difference? Quality champagne possesses a subtle flavour that is not overly fruity. The best champagne also relies on a delicate combination of freshness, richness and exquisite sparkle – a mysterious ensemble that the Champenois would argue is virtually impossible to emulate.
Add to that the unique advantage of high latitude and terroir. The Champagne region of France has so much to offer: ninety miles north east of Paris, its vines are planted on a small range of hills, rising above a chalky plain, divided by the River Marne. Now, it may come as a bit of a surprise to discover that the Champagne vineyards are located at a higher latitude than most other wine growing regions of the world, except, that is, for England. And, it is no mere coincidence that English vineyards are currently producing some of the finest sparkling wines available on the market today.
But, interestingly, whenever other wine producers around the globe try to come up with a slightly different style of sparkling wine, using the same blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grape varieties, they still tend to use champagne as a yardstick for their finished product.
Ultimately, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Today, when other wine producers, particularly Australian, Californian or Spanish, try to ring the changes with a modern take on sophisticated bubbly, they deserve to be taken seriously - very seriously indeed. Most of the time, those fortunate enough to have a palate attuned to the niceties of best bubby would be hard pressed to tell the difference!
Competition, nevertheless, remains fierce, among quality producers; and the Champenois are reluctant to be usurped. Consumption of the genuine article continues apace, with demand for champagne at an all time high. Further, in 2004 it is anticipated that the total possible Champagne producing area (restricted in 1927 to a maximum 80,275 acres) may be expanded to meet the growing taste for top notch bubbly. In the meantime, it’s a buyer’s market, where sparkling wines are concerned.
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