 Dining Alone
Dining Alone? Dine Communal
Dining alone, in London, has at last come of age.
Today’s restaurateurs are bending over backwards to court lone diners who now comprise a huge chunk of the eating-out market. Gone are the days when solo customers, were given the sore-thumb treatment and relegated to a miserable table on the flight path to the loos or kitchens; that, I’m glad to say, is pretty much a thing of the past.
The tables have turned, in more ways than one. Those individuals who either choose to, or are obliged to, dine alone in the city for whatever reason, can confidently expect a genuine welcome, friendly service and… a table in plum position. Well-informed waiters and waitresses are prepared to pander to lone diners’ comfort and to involve them in the buzz and enjoyment of the dining experience; they are also trained to identify and respect those guests who prefer their own company. The fact of the matter is that the waiting staff will take their lead from the customer and not the other way round – a new generation of lone diners is calling the shots.
In tandem with this deference to individual diners, an interesting trend for communal dining (or sharing a table with total strangers) is emerging in some of the city’s most exciting restaurants. A coincidence? Probably not. Of course, there’s an undercurrent of commercial zeal and enterprise involved, but does it really matter if everyone benefits? And, judging by the popularity of these restaurants and the “enthusings” of the customers who are prepared to queue to get a seat at a communal table, this sociable style of dining looks here to stay.
The idea of table sharing may be a relatively new concept for the British diner, but it is commonplace in many European countries and has been the norm, in the Far East, for many centuries. But, as far as fashionable trends are concerned, we appear to have taken the lead from the United States and New York in particular. Here, according to the restaurant industry consultant, Marya Charles Alexander, the communal table trend took hold, over a decade ago and is hugely popular with punters who are “situationally single”, especially the single female. Solo diners, she explains, like to feel part of a community, to strike up conversations with total strangers and, of course, not pass up on an opportunity to network.
Back in Britain, we too are cottoning on fast to the pleasures of communal dining and the possibilities of a spot of networking. The Soho Asian eaterie, Busabe Eathai, for example, with its huge communal tables, has a faithful following of predominantly young, budget-conscious arts and media folk, who want to combine business with pleasure.
In general, communal style dining does not require a reservation; but, you will often find yourself in a queue – such is the popularity of these types of restaurants. But, hey, it’s usually worth it. In the words of Brian Mahon of the Kensington “Japanese noodle canteen” Wagamama’s, “People don’t mind queuing”, for the waiting is well worthwhile.
Fancy a slice of the action? Head for…
• Afghan Kitchen, 35 Islington Green, Islington, N1 8DU
• Benihana, 100 Avenue Road, Swiss Cottage, NW3 3HF
• Busabe Eathai, 106-110 Wardour Street, Soho, W1F 0TR
• Dish Dash, 57 Goodge Street, W1P 1FA
• Itsu, 118 Draycott Avenue, Chelsea, W3 3AE
• Sapori, 43 Drury Lane, Covent Garden, London, WC2B 5RT
• The Pan-Asian Canteen, Paxton's Head, 153 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7PA
• Wagamama, 101 Wigmore Street, Bloomsbury, W1H 9AB.
So, how does one sum up the experience of dining solo, with a table of strangers?
A spokesperson for Dish Dash could not have put it more succinctly when he explained that: "If you view yourself as a community restaurant then what you're doing is giving the community you serve the chance to meet and get into conversation with one another”. And, this it would appear, is exactly what’s happening.
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