 London's pudding lovers have, at last, come out of the closet - and who can blame them!
In recent years, the temptation has been mounting, with quality restaurants vying with each other to win the affections of diners with a penchant for puddings. Even the word "pudding" has witnessed a comeback, with its smothered-in-custard style hint of nostalgia. Surely, the description is far more tempting than "dessert" which smacks of a stern after-thought.
The affair, however, started with a revival in the popularity of comfort eating, coupled with the British propensity for school puddings and good old-fashioned "afters" - just like our grannies used to make 'em! Hard to imagine, but way back in the seventies and eighties, the mere notion of pepping up the dessert menu in some of the city's top-notch restaurants with simple puddings, would have met with derision. The introduction of comfort offerings such as "sticky pudding", "spotted dick", "treacle tart", "bread and butter pudding" would have seemed inconceivable at the height of French culinary dominance and certainly during our brief brush with nouvelle cuisine. These divine desserts would, indeed have sat uncomfortably alongside the Crème Brulée and miniscule portions of Pot au Chocolat, of that period.
But, the gamble paid off.
For evidence, look no further than Bibendum, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD; its chocolate cake pudding is a recipe, conceived in heaven. Rules, Maiden Lane, Covent Garden London WC2E 7LB, is yet another example of where to find perfect puddings. Recognised far and wide for its sumptuous array of traditional style creations, it prides itself on using only the finest of ingredients. Then, there's Gordon Ramsay, 68-69 Hospital Road, SW3 4PH, which offers a different spin on what are essentially plain puddings. Its patisserie style afters are something to die for.
Some of London's Italian restaurants, renowned for taking puddings seriously, are also adding a twist to their traditional sweet concoctions. That old favourite, "tiramisu", for instance, has been updated in a number of establishments and it is all the better for it! Even humble blancmange has been resurrected and elevated to new heights, at Isola, 145 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7PA, with a chocolate version that is sure satisfy even the purist blancmange lover.
And, on the subject of chocolate-oriented delights, with a difference, who in their right mind could resist the Chocolate Nemesis of River Café fame, Thames Wharf Studios, Rainville Road, W6 9HA. Ivy, 1-5 West Street, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9NE, too, has updated its pudding menu with a chocolate creation, under the guise of a lighter option of fruits and berries, albeit groaning under a canopy of unbelievably subtle white chocolate.
But, it is easy to digress under an avalanche of pudding possibilities; so let's return to the central issue. Today's pudding menus have come of age; they have about them an air of respectability. Apart from the indisputable excellence and diversity of these sweet diversionary options, there may be one final twist to the story of our renewed love affair with puddings.
Several restaurants have taken it upon themselves to promote, nay to seduce pudding aficionados with an accompanying glass of carefully selected dessert wine. This may have proved to be the clincher. Gone are the days when dessert wines were a mere appendage to the main wine list; gone too are the days when such wines tended to be sold by the bottle. Instead, many menus now make recommendations and actively promote appropriate dessert wines, by the glass, alongside the mouth-watering descriptions of the various puddings. In an attempt to improve their service, far-sighted restaurateurs have identified an opportunity; a final thoughtful touch that has won the hearts of those with a passion for puddings.
Today, the blatant sweet "come-ons" in some of London's finest restaurants bear no resistance; their pudding menus pull no punches. Moreover, there is something de rigeur, nowadays, about ordering afters. The tables have turned. Life is stressful enough as it is; and after all, many of us are now redressing the balance of calorie intake by working out at the gym and turning our backs on junk food. So, what's wrong with a portion of pudding to round off the perfect meal? We've earned it!
|
