 The very thought of matching food with the "right wine" no longer strikes fear into the hearts of modern diners. Today, we're more open-minded, knowledgeable and flexible; we have, indeed, seen through the emperor's clothing of the wine selection ritual. Being presented with the wine list, nowadays, is more likely to be viewed as an opportunity to experiment with unfamiliar new labels - a moment to savour.
"Forget the traditional guidelines about matching wines or grape varieties to certain dishes; choose, rather to suit your palate and above all, select a wine that you know you'll enjoy."
Now, the advice, as far as it goes, is good advice.
Most modern diners are familiar with this iconoclastic approach to choosing wines. White wine with white meat and fish and reds with red meats and cheeses is an outmoded dictum that's well past its sell-by date.
But, is it possible that this new, gung-ho attitude to choosing wine may, in the long run, prove as daft as unwavering adherence to the traditional guidelines? After all, the "sticking-a-pin-in-the-wine-list" approach may just as easily result in the selection of something that gives very little pleasure and at worst, may ruin the meal.
It's time for a re-think.
So much has changed in both gastronomic and vinous terms, over the past few years that all the "rules" about matching food and wine have been thrown back into the melting pot. For a start, our eating patterns and food preferences have shifted quite markedly in favour of white meats, fish and vegetarian dishes, with a corresponding decrease in the consumption of red meats. Another development is the massive increase in the popularity of global cuisine. All those new textures, flavours and combinations have opened up a veritable Pandora's box of options, when it comes to selecting wines to complement our choice of food!
Along with our enthusiasm for all things "demi-veg", we have also become a nation of wine lovers; red wine lovers, in particular. Now, these trends pose an interesting question: How does one reconcile the increasing popularity of dishes that traditionally would have been accompanied by white wines, with the huge increase in consumption of red wines? The answer, I believe, is quite simple. Today's "new technology" red wines bear little resemblance to the overpoweringly acidic, tannic quaffing reds that dominated the wine lists of the average restaurant, until quite recently. Modern reds are smoother, suppler, fruitier and much easier on the palate. In many respects, they have taken on the some of the characteristics of the finest, fruitiest whites produced today.
All these developments add weight to the argument that "anything goes" when pairing food and wine. Current thinking, therefore, is more inclined to match wines (or grape varieties) with different cuisines rather than specific food types. The following are merely suggestions and an invitation to experiment with similar types of wines and grape varieties.
North African: Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Zinfandel
Chinese: Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel
Indian: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
Japanese: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio
Mediterranean: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Assyrtiko, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache
Mexican: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot
Modern French: Noble grape varieties - Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc
Thai: Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Semillon
Finally, a few general hints to avoid disappointing pairings:
• Steer clear of dry wines, particularly reds, with sweet foods - the wine will taste acidic and thin. Opt, instead, for a wine that is as sweet as, or sweeter than the food.
• Fortified wines are perfect with tapas.
• Certain foods, including asparagus, artichokes, spinach, mackerel and salsa are notoriously difficult to match. Your best bet, is to go for fruity, fresh whites with high levels of acidity, such as Sauvignon Blanc. Or, try a glass of dry fino sherry, instead - delicious with mackerel. Very tannic reds are best avoided.
• Vegetarian dishes marry well with the fresh, apply flavours of Pinot Blanc and the low tannins of Grenache and Tempranillo.
• Rosé wines tend to be surprisingly good all-rounders for a wide range of dishes - from fish to rich spicy foods.
• Sparkling dry whites and champagne make a delicious accompaniment for a huge variety of cuisines.
Ultimately, however, the choice is ours, and does it really matter if the wine we fancy isn't a perfect "match" for the food on our plate? We have, at least, broadened our gastronomic and vinous horizons; and that is perfectly acceptable, in the most formal of restaurants.
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