 The days when a London restaurant opened its doors on the strength of just a whimsical vision are a thing of the past. Today's ruthlessly competitive climate has put paid to that. Potential start-ups now have to overcome the less than glamorous hurdles of financial approval, rigorous market research, business plans and set-backs - enough to crush the enthusiasm of the most determined wannabe restaurateurs.
Restaurant viability, more than vision is what matters today.
But, this is not a bad thing. A new restaurant that has conducted rigorous market research, before getting down to the niceties of drawing up its menu, is more likely to succeed, long-term. It is also more likely to give the punters what they really want. If the new establishment gets it right, up-front, it will win repeat customers and that, after all, is what it's all about - pleasing the public.
First, however, let's remind ourselves of how far London's restaurant scene has progressed, in terms of "diner expectations". Even a few decades ago, new restaurants were generally greeted with a touch of unquestioning deference from the public. This was particularly true of some of the more up-market, traditional French and British establishments. Perhaps it was simply a case of customers not knowing what to expect. Menus were often written entirely in French, with little or no explanation to help diners make the right choice. As for the dreaded wine list . . . in most smart restaurants, a sommelier would hover, unforgivingly, while the brow-beaten diner cast a nervous glance down the price column rather than savouring the descriptions of the various wines. Then, to top it all, the lavish extravaganza was typically served with a whiff of condescension - this was not value for money; neither was it a pleasurable experience.
Mercifully, subjection to such nonsense is a rarity, nowadays, thanks to the rise of consumer power.
The diner-friendly ambience of the majority of modern London eateries, however, was not achieved overnight. Far from it. Diners have endured, en route, the vagaries of nouvelle cuisine, cuisine minceur and shoddy offerings, masquerading as rustic, brasserie cooking. Restaurant décor has also undergone an evolution. From formal neutrally decked out, small-to-medium sized dining rooms to minimalist, large, noisy settings, current preferences indicate a reversion to smaller, more intimate dining environments. The small "neighbourhood" style eaterie is making a comeback.
Demands on today's start-up restaurants, however, are immense; the challenge to meet customers' expectations has never been greater. So, when it comes to choosing a new restaurant, what do diners really want?
A quick round up of just a few recently opened restaurants in London, confirms that diversity and a relaxed setting are key. Take for example L'Etranger, 36 Gloucester Road, Kensington, London SW7 4QT, which offers an innovative approach to modern European cuisine, in a relaxing and pleasant environment. Or, try Chintamini, 122 Jermyn Street, Mayfair, London SW1Y 4UJ, for Middle Eastern and predominantly Turkish cooking with a difference, in a fun environment. Benares, 12 Berkeley Square, Mayfair, London W1X 5HG, is yet another recent start-up that offers relaxed, but friendly service, as well as experimental Indian fare that is proving highly popular with customers. A number of exciting, new Italian restaurants have also opened in recent months, most offering innovative, modern cuisine, fun décor and pleasant ambience.
So, what is the winning formula? The answer, unfortunately is not that simple, but lies rather in a combination of factors, including:
• Innovation and experimentation
• Value for money
• Diversity of cuisine
• More "healthy" options on the menu
• Less rigid demarcation between courses
• Extensive, reasonably priced drinks' list
• Fixed price menu options
• Friendly and efficient service
• Individual décor - with stunning panoramas, a major bonus
• Relaxation
• Fun - and plenty of it!
Above all today's patrons are a sociable bunch, in search of a pleasant dining experience: good food and wine, good service; good value, good conversation and company are pre-requisites, all of course, in a relaxing environment. It is up to each individual restaurant to identify these needs.
Encouragingly, most new ventures appear to be bending over backwards to provide their customers with just such an environment. If start-up restaurants can keep up the frenetic pace and continue to offer diners more than just good quality nosh, their new customers are likely to become loyal customers.
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