 Historically, the British public has never had much truck for "those who cook" for a living. Our more enlightened counterparts, however, across the Channel, have always revered the professionalism of their top chefs and awarded them accordingly. Way back, in the 1920s, when the French presented Auguste Escoffier with the Légion d'honneur, the British were somewhat perplexed. Ironically, Escoffier was working in London, at the time, yet the French were still saw fit to honour the achievements of one of their own.
But, that was the past; and things are different - very different - now.
The part played by professional chefs from the Continent, in what has been termed "the British food renaissance" cannot be overestimated. The fact that Britain today (and London in particular) can boast so many talented top chefs and a passion for "dining out" may, in one respect, be attributed to an accident of geography. When the Roux brothers, Raymond Blanc, Anton Mosimann, Nico Ladenis, to list but a few famous names, first decided to up sticks and practise their skills on British soil, they opened up a gastronomic flood gate.
Moreover, excellence breeds excellence and it was under the guidance of such talent that many of today's highly acclaimed chefs acquired their individual styles and culinary expertise. Consider, for instance the sheer inspiration engendered by such chefs as Gordon Ramsay, Pierre Koffman and Marco Pierre White; all of whom honed their skills in the kitchens of Le Gavroche, a ground-breaking enterprise set up by the Roux brothers in 1967.
But, it is only in the latter part of the twentieth century, that the rôle of the British chef has been elevated to true celebrity status.
No longer confined to the anonymity of the kitchen, today's chefs have far more complex rôles to play than the mere preparation of food. Often seen sashaying in and out their kitchens to take credit for their gourmet creations, modern chefs are now encouraged to stamp their personality and style on the whole dining experience. And, in so doing, they have become highly skilled operators at oiling the wheels of customer relationships and building up business for their establishments. In addition, today's chefs are, at last, recognised as managers who play an active rôle in organising the waiting staff, as well as the general running of the restaurant. A talented chef can mean the difference between a restaurant's success and failure and the wise restaurateur is quick to apportion credit, where credit is due.
Several celebrity chefs, however, have seized upon this opportunity for recognition and adulation and have taken their burgeoning rôle one step further. It is not uncommon, nowadays, for certain well-known cooks to spend more time in front of a TV camera or writing and promoting their own recipe books, than toiling away behind kitchen doors. Modern chefs are indeed sprucing up their public image. There may even be a grain of truth in the tongue-in-cheek observations of Antony Worrall Thompson, restaurateur and TV chef, who commented that "you could be the best chef in the world, but without good looks, you don't stand a chance on TV".
Personalities such as Keith Floyd, Gary Rhodes, Jamie Oliver, Ainsley Harriott and several other famous chefs have all given public face to what was once a solitary and thankless occupation. Ainsley Harriott, chef of the TV programme "Can't Cook Won't Cook" has even diversified into the public arena by releasing a record and embracing the London comedy circuit . . .hmm.
Today's celebrity chefs are familiar with the benefits and rewards of media exposure. Such is their cult status that they can command high fees for public appearances. In fact, most of them no longer feel the need to promote themselves and have signed up, instead, with agencies that provide a full liaison service between client and "performing artistes"!
With fame, however, comes responsibility. It is to the credit of several high profile chefs that they have turned to weightier matters and have become involved in issues of general, public concern. Examples abound, such as the promotion of healthier eating habits and involvement in campaigns to raise awareness of the dangers of genetically modified foods. Chefs, Antonio Carluccio of Neal Street Restaurant and Philip Howard of The Square have even come up with a logo for "Avoiding GM Foods". The balance is being redressed.
Clearly, however, for the majority of modern chefs, the reality of the job is rather different - demanding, sometimes rewarding, but always extremely tiring.
So why, despite the hard graft and long hours involved, are catering courses, at colleges around Britain, becoming an increasing popular option for an increasing number of youngsters, all eager to enter the profession? The answer, it would appear is two-fold: first, becoming a chef is now seen as a coveted career; second, it dangles before them the carrot of opportunity; young people want to emulate the new-found status of their culinary heroes. Thanks to overwhelming media exposure, today's celebrity chefs are viewed as stars, their rôle imbued with glamour and social achievement.
The next generation of celebrities is waiting in the wings.
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